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Hair Care

Proper hair care is important for normal hair, particularly for hair that is thinning. Unfortunately, not many people understand the basics of hair care and get lured by advertisements into using products that may not be suitable. Let us examine some aspects of hair care so that you can use hair products and styles to the best advantage.

Shampoos are cleansing agents rather like ordinary soaps. Indeed, shampoos in the past were soap based, but these had the disadvantage of being affected by hard water. They caused a scum deposit and made hair look dull. Modem shampoos contain synthetic detergents and work equally well in hard or soft water.

There are essentially three types of shampoos available in the market. They are (1) shampoos for dry hair, (2) shampoos for normal hair and (3) shampoos for oily hair. There are other sub classifications, but these are unnecessary and confusing. The difference essentially lies in the amount of oil (lanolin, natural or mineral oil) added to them.

Shampoos for dry hair contain oil whereas those for normal or oily hair generally do not. It is helpful to choose the right shampoo for your type of hair.

If your hair looks greasy and matted together, then use a shampoo for oily hair. If these prove too drying even for oily hair, use a normal hair formula and wash more frequently or double wash. It should be remembered that the basic purpose of all shampoos is to clean the hair and all shampoos do this very well. Since they are all equally effective, you might like to choose the best-smelling one, remembering that price is not necessarily an indication of quality.

Some shampoos are labeled "acid-balanced" or "pH_ balanced." The detergents found in all shampoos are alkaline (they have to be, otherwise they will not clean) and open the imbrications (spaces) in the cuticle so that hair gets entangled easily. This effect is minimized by acid or pH balanced shampoos.

Another group of shampoos available in the market are called medicated shampoos. These contain substances that help itchy scalp conditions such as dandruff or seborrhoeic dermatitis and psoriasis.

Despite the name, medicated shampoos do not contain medicine for the hair and will not help hair to grow; neither will they cause hair loss. They can be safely used to treat people with hair loss who have co_existing scalp conditions such as seborrhoeic dermatitis or psoriasis. Medicated shampoos are generally more drying and a conditioner may be used if this is a problem.

All sorts of claims have been made by the manufacturers of shampoos and hundreds ofhealthful_sounding substances are added to entice the consumer into choosing their products. In truth, shampoos only clean hair; they do not nourish hair. All the nourishment for the hair is provided by the blood vessels around the hair follicles and nothing applied to the scalp will affect the follicles below.

Shampooing is not harmful even for people with hair loss. Regular shampooing keeps the scalp and hair clean, healthy-looking and comfortable. It may also help male pattern baldness by removing locally-produced androgens from the scalp . These androgens are believed to contribute towards male pattern baldness.

Recently, a number of 2 in 1 shampoos have been introduced into the market. These contain the additional conditioner. Frankly, I believe it is better to use conditioners separately after shampooing because the detergent in 2_in_ 1 shampoos probably wash away most of the conditioner.

How you use the shampoo is also important for getting the best out of the shampoo. Wet the hair first, then pour a 20_cent_size dollop of shampoo into your hand. Spread it between the fingers and then work the shampoo into the scalp. It is incorrect to pour shampoo directly on to the scalp because cleaning will be uneven with some parts getting more shampoo than others.

Rinse off thoroughly afterwards. Remember that the cleansing ability is not related to the amount of lather the shampoo produces. Some shampoos clean exceptionally well even though they produce very little lather.

Shampoos are just cleansing agents and really all they are meant to be. That is why conditioners were developed; they help hair that is dry and unmanageable, seal split ends and give hair a little body.
There are basically three types: (1) conditioners to reduce static and prevent the fly away look, (2) conditioners that give body and temporarily glue split ends together and (3) conditioners that replace the oils removed by the detergents in shampoos.

The first type contains quaternary ammonium compounds to reduce static. The second contains hydrolyzed animal proteins which coat the hair with protein and give it extra thickness. They also help to fill up any cracks in the cuticle caused by perming and bleaching. The third contains oils which coat hair, making it look shiny and lustrous and preventing it from getting entangled and breaking off during combing.

Another product that works like a conditioner is the acid rinse. You may recall that shampoos are alkaline and ruffle up the cuticles, causing hair to get entangled. The acid rinse neutralizes the alkalinity of shampoos, reducing static and thereby reducing the fly away look. It also makes the hair smoother and more manageable. Lemon juice and vinegar may be used to make a simple acid rinse.

Most conditioners nowadays contain many of the substances so that one conditioner can prevent the fly away look, give hair fullness and make them manageable as well as temporarily seal split ends.

These contain vinyls and waxes which coat the hair and make them look thick. Thickeners are applied to damp hair and combed or brushed into it. The hair is then allowed to dry completely. A final brush fluffs up the hair again.

These help to keep hair in place. There are basically two types of hair sprays. The alcohol based hair spray, also called soft hold spray formula, hardens the hair as the alcohol evaporates. The most common ingredient in these is something called SO alcohol 40. SO means specially denatured or undrinkable. The plastic or vinyl based hair spray, also called hard hold hair spray formula, coats the hair with a layer and keeps it in position when it hardens.

At the moment, there is great concern about the destruction of the Earth's ozone layer by chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs). If you are concerned, use CFC free hair sprays.

Hair drying

A void vigorous toweling, but gently pat the hair dry with a towel and then comb the hair with a wide tooth comb. Never use a brush on wet hair. You can then allow the hair to dry naturally (which is preferred) or use a hair dryer.

When using a hair dryer, set it to a slower and cooler setting and hold it at least six inches away. Move the hair dryer from spot to spot and continue blowing until the hair is partially dry, then leave it to dry completely on its own. Do not blow hair until it is completely dry as this tends to over dry and cause it to become brittle or split at the ends.

Hairstyles

Hairstyles that exert traction on the hair-ponytails, corn rows, buns, etc.-are not a good idea for people with hair loss problems. Other styles can be used to conceal hair loss.

One of the most popular methods used by men to conceal hair loss is what I call the "up and over." In this method, hair is grown long on one side and then combed over and upwards to cover the bald area. In my view, this method is unsatisfactory and probably attracts more attention to the hair loss. One would be better off seeking the help of a hairdresser.

The professional hairdresser can recommend an appropriate style to disguise areas of thinning or advise you on the use of conditioners and thickeners to help give hair a fuller look. There are other tricks which the hairdresser can do, such as highlighting certain areas to divert attention from areas of thinning.

The shape of our hair is determined by two types of linkages-hydrogen bonds which are weaker, and sulphur bonds which are stronger. These can be broken to make hair pliable so that it can be modeled to the desired shape. Electric hair rollers and curling irons disrupt the hydrogen bonds. The first may be safe to use because the heat is not intense enough to hurt the hair. Curling irons on the other hand can definitely hurt your hair. The occasional use of curling irons just before a function does no real harm, but repeated use can damage the hair cuticle permanently. It is best to avoid them if you already suffer from hair loss.

The most popular form of hair waving used nowadays is permanent waving. It does not use heat and, hence, is also known as cold waving. It also gives a longer lasting set to the hair.

In permanent waving, the sulphur bonds are first broken with solutions or foams containing thioglycollates (wave solution). The hair is then curled around rollers and left in place for a specified time. After that, the solution is neutralized by adding an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide. This causes the sulphur bonds to reform in their new position.

Great care must be taken when using permanent wave solutions; thioglycollates may damage hair and cause it to become brittle and break off. Damage to hair is a particular hazard when permanent waving is done at home. Permanent waving should be done not more than once every three months.

As a general rule, the hairstyle should be simple and easy to maintain. Avoid hairstyles such as pony tailing, corn rowing and tight braiding because these pull on hair, causing breakage and even permanent hair loss.

Keep the hair short because short hair is easier to manage and less likely to break. Short hair also looks thicker. Hair sprays can be used safely to help hair hold its shape.

Hair colouring

Hair colorings have been used for centuries. The ancient Egyptians, Persians, Greeks and Romans used natural (vegetable) dyes such as henna. These were harmless on the hair. Nowadays, we use synthetic dyes which are extremely effective for colouring hair, but some may be damaging to the hair. There are three main types of synthetic hair dyes: (1) permanent dyes, (2) semi-permanent dyes and (3) temporary tints.

Permanent dyes are the most effective and lasting method' of colouring but are more difficult to apply and the most damaging of the types. They are also known as oxidation dyes because oxidation takes place within the hair.

The dye (paraphenylene diamine or PPD) is first of all mixed with a developer, hydrogen peroxide, and the mixture is applied. These chemicals enter the cortex, strip it of the pigment molecules and replace them with the new colour. The peroxide used in permanent dyes is rather damaging to the cuticle, and frequent dyeing can lead to hair breakage.

Another problem is that dyes suc h as PPD (which dyes hair black) can cause allergy. Most manufacturers recommend an allergy test beforehand. The freshly mixed dye is applied to cleansed skin behind the ear or on the upper inner arm and left for 24 hours. If redness, itching or swelling occurs, then the person is allergic to it.
However, allergies seem rare because millions of people are exposed to hair dyes and only a few develop them. This is fortunate because many salons do not carry out allergy tests beforehand.

Semi-permanent dyes are low molecular weight chemicals which can enter the hair and deposit there. They contain sulphur and thioglycollate instead of peroxide and are less damaging to the cuticle. Semi-permanent dyes last five or six shampooing.

Temporary tints are colour rinses which coat the hair with the desired colour. They do not contain peroxide or thioglycollate and will not hurt the hair. However, they can only lightly tint hair and are also washed off during shampooing. They are more useful for highlighting, brightening faded hair and toning down grey hair.

Dyeing dark hair a light colour requires the hair to be bleached first. This is done with a solution of hydrogen peroxide and an accelerator, per-sulphate. The accelerator increases the bleaching effect of hydrogen peroxide. After bleaching, a toner (light hair dye) is added. The bleaching process is even more damaging to the cuticle than permanent dyes.

The biggest controversy about hair dyes is whether or not they cause cancer. Artificial dyes used for colouring hair have been shown to cause cancer when fed in large amounts to rats. However, manufacturers of hair dyes argue that applying dyes on the scalp is not the same as eating them. Furthermore, there is no apparent link between women who use hair dyes and women who have cancer. Still, I think it is prudent for pregnant women and those with a family history of cancer to avoid using them.

Natural dyes are the safest hair dyes to use. These are derived from vegetables like henna, camomile, logwood, indigo and rhubarb. However, they do not offer versatility of colour like synthetic dyes and are generally less popular.

Temporary rinses are also harmless these can only lightly tint hair and do not withstand shampooing . Moderation should be exercised when using other dyes, particularly if you suffer from hair loss. The dyeing process may damage the hair and cause breakage, further thinning hair.

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